Background: Susur Lee was (and depending who you speak to, is) one the World’s top Chefs. Most f his reputation was made in Toronto where he owned multiple restaurants. He decided to move to New York City, rebranded his 2 Toronto restaurants and launched his claim in the Big Apple. Susur was a contestant on TOP CHEF MASTERS where many cable viewers got to ‘meet’ him. For a variety of reasons, his US project has been muddled and his Toronto presence is a shadow of it’s former self. That’s an unfairly brief summary of where we got to this week.
Today’s post is far more Editorial than we’ve been lately and is something I’ve been gently thinking about for the last few days. I’m not intending to start an Internet war – simply sharing a perspective that’s a little off what I’ve been reading around the Internet this week.
The Internet seemed to be on fire this week with the news that one of our former Top Chef’s was launching a new project – a line of salad dressings with one of Canada’s largest food conglomerates. It seems as though his star may have been falling (or, at least, settling in the sky) when many of our Cities food-forward people heard the news – and seemed to lose their breath. The Globe and Mail stopped short of name calling but did quote a writer Rose Prince from the Telegraph that, “Selling out has become a natural progression that follows television fame.”
Twitter was ablaze with name calling and bitter accusations. There were a series of awful accusations that accused him of being, amongst other things:
- a sell-out
- desperate
- greedy
- fake
Pretty heady stuff – words that hurt.
I am hoping I can level an argument that may appeal to cooler heads. I’m not suggesting you should run out and buy his line of Salad Dressing (I won’t) – just asking that we take a step back for a moment and consider the ramifications of the easy act of piling on an easy target.
Susur opened his restaurant in New York in 2008. The risk was considerable – he closed his flagship restaurant in Toronto, rebranded it Madeline and passed the keys (metaphorically to his former right-hand). He essentially opened two high-end restaurants at the same time.
I am sure that there were many reasons why the ventures appeared to struggle (I don’t have access to the numbers). Certainly it was a giant task, splitting attention in two places is difficult (at best) and the competition in New York is fierce.
I have no idea why the ventures didn’t soar into success. I would have to argue that the decisions to launch these ventures occurred long before our economy hit the bump that it did, corporate expense accounts got cinched and buildings full of bankers rolled their Aeron chairs down the streets. The people with the $1,000+ expense account were a rare breed. And this had to be part of the story.
Was the decline of the economy predictable? Perhaps. It is certainly a lot more foreseeable in hindsight. Susur and his investors wouldn’t be the only ones who didn’t see it coming.
The restaurant business is one of the toughest businesses there is. Combine 2 higher-end restaurants in two-cities and a bad economy and the odds would be stacked against all of us. Even Adonis was mortal after all.
Imagine yourself in the same position. Reaching success and still not sated. Wanting to raise the bar even higher than world-class. Willing to put your name, your brand, your restaurant and more behind that dream. And imagine hitting the same obstacles. The truth is that this is what most chef-owned restaurants do every day. There are few safety nets and a lot of people cheering for you to fall off the tightrope.
A celebrated Chef in Toronto went through a very public battle with bankruptcy (or near bankruptcy last year). The case is none of my business and I am a giant fan. The man has won an Order of Canada – and too many people seemed excited to spread the news of his ‘failure’ (which was highly exaggerated as time is showing).
Perhaps you don’t agree with the mass grocery approach (I haven’t spent more than $120 in grocery stores in 6 months and haven’t bought salad dressing in years). Perhaps it’s not sustainable (it’s not – but my personal target of choice would take aim at Tuna and Factory Farms before the nefarious aisle of Salad Dressing). But perhaps, just maybe, this is a safety net. One that will allow him to continue to pursue his dream – even if it is an extreme measure.
But my argument isn’t about defending Susur. He can do that on his own.
My calm argument is simply that if we jump on Chefs using the only thing they have (their brand) to weather difficult times, what’s in it for them to risk doing what they do in the first place? If people are only going to cheer you on when you are doing well and leave you when you hit a bump, why would you want to do it in the first place?
I have a tonne of respect for the Career Path of a Chef – as I know many do. I’m not entirely comfortable with this line of product (I have made the point of not mentioning it here) and it does take a bit of the shine out of my excitement around the symbol that is Susur Lee. But that, in my mind, doesn’t mean he’s a sellout or worse. It simply means he is doing what he has to – and discouraging that is a very dangerous precident for for all the Chefs who dare to risk the same.